Design 101

Before you being decorating, there are some things you could do to make it that bit easier. If you're renting your property, you will first need to find out the limitations from your landlord. Most private landlords will stiplulate that only certain colours can be used on the walls - if they let you paint them at all. Others will allow you to decorate but it could cost you your security deposit. Check with them before doing anything.

Assuming you get the go-ahead, you then need to work out exactly what you want to achieve in each room. consider what each room is used for, and how often. It's pointless spending a lot on a room that's hardly used!

Think about colour schemes, and take into account your existing furniture if you don't plan on replacing it. You may have a fixed idea of the colour scheme you want already, but if not, trawl through decorating magazines, internet sites and watch design programmes for inspiration. Alternatively, pick your favourite colour and build a scheme around that. If your starting colour is quite vibrant, you may want to use it as an accent colour only, for example fuscia, while too bold for walls, will look great on cushions.

Once you have an idea of what you're aiming for, the next step is to work out your budget. Go to DIY stores and price up paints, wallpapers, and anything else you need. Don't forget things like gloss paint for woodwork, and any tools or equipment you'll need to get the job done. There's nothing more frustrating than having to stop in the middle of a job to run to the shop for a set of roller sponges! remember also to measure the rooms you are going to be working on, to calculate how much paint or rolls of wallpaper you'll need. It's always best to buy a little extra, as most stores will refund any unopened paper or paint.

Depending on the room you're doing, it may not be feasible to clear out every scrap of furniture before you decorate. If this is the case, you'll need an abundance of dust sheets - which can be just regular bedsheets. Stock up on them from charity shops, or buy proper dust sheets from DIY stores. Remove any electrical items such as your TV and computer, and any ormanents - basically, all but the largest items should be taken out if possible. Anything left in the room should be covered with your sheets, including the carpet if you're planning on keeping it. Take your curtains down, and if you have nosy neighbours, use masking tape to stick newspaper sheets to your windows to deter prying eyes.

If you're painting your walls, you will probably need emulsion paint. This is water based so it's easy to wash off should it splatter anywhere you don't want it - like your face! The brushes and rollers can be washed in water too, and emulsion paint doesn't tend to leave brush marks. Textured paint is useful if your walls have an uneven surface, as the sand in the paint will disguise the parts that may otherwise need plastering. For kitchens and bathrooms, use special semi-porous paint which won't go mouldy when exposed to condensation.

If you're wallpapering, it's worth removing every scrap of old paper first, using a steamer for ease. this is especially true if you're applying a flat paper as opposed to an anaglypta textured paper. The old paper will show up as raised areas under the new paper, making your decorating look shabby. Next, sand down any uneven areas to create a completely smooth surface. Allow the walls to dry completely - overnight is best - then you can being assembling your equipment and cutting your paper.

Measure your walls, and add a couple of inches extra to allow for error. If you're lucky, your walls will be perfectly straight and therefore paper-hanging will be easy. If, like me, your corners aren't true right-angles, it can be more difficult, so allow a little more when cutting. When I paper I always paste a strip and leave it while I hang the previous one, this gives the paste chance to settle into the paper for better adhesion. This isn't necessary if you have pre-pasted paper or prefer to paste the walls instead. Be liberal with the paste, so as to avoid dry patches which may peel or bubble later.

Start your paper-hanging in a corner. This will ensure your paper hangs straight. If your corners are uneven, draw a vertical line using a spirit level a little out from the corner, and begin hanging from this. Go from the ceiling downwards, as gravity will help to smooth the paper out. Use a damp sponge in a downwards and outwards stroke to smooth the bubbles out. If your paper has a pattern, you can line it up by sliding the paper around on the wall - another reason to use plenty of paste!

There are several ways to paper around light fittings and sockets, but the method I use is to paper over them, then use a stanley knife to cut a diagonal cross in the paper once it's dried a little. It's then easy to trim around the edges once the paper is fully dry.